Pinot Noir is dead sexy. Enigmatic, because it requires the right vineyard sites in cooler regions and is unforgiving of sloppy viticulture. Inspiring, because it does not conform to formulaic winemaking but requires imagination as much as experience. Frustrating as the slightest mistake can have disastrous consequences. When everything comes together the resultant wines are seductive, addictive and memorable.

We went to the Porongurup for our single vineyard Pinot Noir, The Hard Road. The complex and intriguing soil of this vineyard, matched with yields around 3t/Ha provide fruit of rare intensity and length. The fussy, near obsessive, viticulture brings the terroir to the fore and the complex soil structures seem to shine through for this unique site.

This parcel was wild fermented with 20% whole bunches, plunging 3/day during the first part of fermentation. Aging in 2 500L puncheons (1 new) for 10 months has added complexity and length.

The 2020 The Hard Road is a great return from this special site. Alluring dark cherry, spice, soy and raspberry characters represent Porongurup Pinot Noir and the underlying stalky structure and fine grained yet silky tannins are from the whole bunch handling and oak aging. The whole has a supple, creamy texture and long fine structure suited to game, mushroom and Asian spices.